How to make copper mini pumpkin for Halloween | Electroforming

We have no putka pods in Europe. The nearest things that look like mini pumpkins are spindletree pods. They are also cute and perfect to make another Halloween project with copper. 

Supplies

• Spindle Tree pods (or Putka pods)
  
• Copper Wire 0.6 mm: https://amzn.to/3LwdFtM | https://ebay.to/3Iifrxj
• Wrap n tap pliers https://amzn.to/3DxT9YM | https://ebay.to/3N4yMFJ
• Nippers: https://amzn.to/38p5eST | https://ebay.to/3BQzX62
• CA Glue https://ebay.to/3pfSgfL | https://amzn.to/3gkYJ49
• Conductive Paint https://ebay.to/3CtqeVc | https://amzn.to/3okY7QA
• All the electroforming supplies https://kit.co/cuforming/electroforming-advanced-kit
• Liver of Sulfur https://ebay.to/3BOoR1i | https://amzn.to/3Gt7p34
• Zapon Lack: https://ebay.to/35BMb6z

additional supplies

• ring hoop
• Tweezers: https://amzn.to/3tgwY2S | https://ebay.to/35aY2IZ
• Copper wire 0.3 mm: https://amzn.to/3LwdFtM | https://ebay.to/3Iifrxj
• Pendant chain: https://amzn.to/3M7VFac | https://ebay.to/3IsXkou
• Lobster clasp : https://amzn.to/3IukJ96 | https://ebay.to/3JZaiuJ
• Earring hooks: https://amzn.to/3SAbcSd | https://ebay.to/3gysamD
  

This is a simple project and relatively easy.

With my wrap n tap pliers also called bail making pliers I make some bails with the copper wire. I choose a size in the middle of the pliers to match the size of the stem.

When I was satisfied with the number, I started to clean all the actual stems on the pods and, with CA glue, I attached the bails I previously made.

After I left them for an hour to let the glue to fully cure, I prepared them for the conductive paint. I made a hook for each piece and dip one by one in to the conductive paint. Dipping all my pieces in the paint is the fastest way to cover them, and it's the way I usually like better.

One dip isn't enough so, after let it dry for less than a minute, I gave them directly a second coat and hang to dry more before the bath.

I dipped them in my tank then and, since they are organic with air inside, they couldn't be able to sink in the solution, so I had to secure all hooks with cloth pins. Pods are still floating, but at least they are completely submerged in the solution. They will eventually sink once they become completely coated in copper and heavier.

After an hour, I made some adjustment to the power supply, so they start to go at full capacity.

The electroforming process will take a while, so in the meantime I've decided to make a ring.

I had a premade ring hoop, so I just needed to glue a pod on it. To make it more realistic and make it look more like a pumpkin, I've created tendrils that are the curls that come out from the pumpkin stem.

With a smaller copper wire and a toothpick, I twisted two tendrils and glue them on to make it ready to be coated in conductive paint and then dipped in the solution.

I managed to fit 8 pieces at the time in the tank, and they were getting completely electroformed at different times. So when some of them were perfectly coated, I made space for more to be electroform.

After they were ready, I dip them in water to rinse the electroforming solution residue off of them.

In a small glass, I prepared a solution of liver of sulfur to make patina. I wanted to make them orange, but sometimes they went out brown. I also left some with no patina to have a different range of colors.

Liver of sulfur is the chemical substance used to color copper and silver. It has an intense smell produced by the evaporation of the sulfides, just like rotten eggs. It's recommended to use a respirator mask or work in a ventilated area.
Also, after we are done with our job, we need to neutralize it with baking soda or better with bleach. You can also leave it to evaporate before flushing in the drain. It's a toxic substance, we don't want to contribute to pollution.

 

 To protect those colors from oxidation, I covered them one by one with Zapon lack that needs two days to fully cure.

These mini pumpkins are versatile and can be adapted to any use. With a chain I made a pendant and by attaching earrings hooks they became earrings. They can also be included into a bracelet composition, or you name it.

 

If you really liked this easy project don't forget to check the video on YouTube.

 Thank you all by CuForming and Happy Halloween!!!

Spider Candleholder for Halloween shaped like a Pumpkin

 Halloween is coming. It's the holiday that scares kids and makes them happy. Also, adults got happy and scared by lots of things, various kind of monsters wandering around, creepy dead things, bats, owls and spiders... well some people are scared of spiders no matter what day is.

My idea is simple: a spider that is scary and a pumpkin that bring everybody the spirit of Halloween, in an object that is seen everywhere during these days.

Here my Spider Candleholder for Halloween shaped like a Pumpkin!

Supplies:

• Copper Wire: https://amzn.to/3LwdFtM | https://ebay.to/3Iifrxj
• Wrap n tap pliers https://amzn.to/3DxT9YM | https://ebay.to/3N4yMFJ
  
• Flat nose pliers https://amzn.to/3TMCKoy | https://ebay.to/36yXkVZ
  
• Nippers: https://amzn.to/38p5eST | https://ebay.to/3BQzX62
• Wooden mandrel https://amzn.to/3DtF8Lv | https://ebay.to/340N0Fy
  
• Butane torch https://amzn.to/3TDooXI | https://ebay.to/33TeRqZ
  
• Copper braising alloy https://amzn.to/3Du6Tng | https://ebay.to/3DxjRk3
  
• Tweezers: https://amzn.to/3tgwY2S | https://ebay.to/35aY2IZ
• Pickling solution https://amzn.to/3FfgteY | https://ebay.to/3SzVRRx
  
• Aluminum foil https://amzn.to/3M2bW0U
• Apoxie Sculpt https://ebay.to/3URwopj | https://amzn.to/36N1TfF
• Modelling tools https://ebay.to/3srynEG | https://amzn.to/3pksmrp
• Isopropyl Alcohol https://ebay.to/3fGkj6l | https://amzn.to/3C88qgK
• Rolling pin https://ebay.to/3gJLT32 | https://amzn.to/3zb5DCL
  
• Conductive Paint https://ebay.to/3CtqeVc | https://amzn.to/3okY7QA
• All the electroforming supplies https://kit.co/cuforming/electroforming-advanced-kit
• Liver of sulfur: https://amzn.to/3Gt7p34 | https://ebay.to/3BOoR1i
• Zapon Lack: https://ebay.to/35BMb6z
• Respirator mask: https://amzn.to/3JTS1yI | https://ebay.to/3sn6fCv
• Rotary Tool https://ebay.to/3M3Ujxb | https://amzn.to/3so0LHy
• Scotch Brite Brush https://ebay.to/3y9Q9hR | https://amzn.to/3M6fSxF
• Bristle Brush Wheel https://ebay.to/3hooJMu | https://amzn.to/3pnlhX4
• A Candle 

Every standing up project begins from the base.
So I start from the very bottom by making the feet with my wrap 'n tap pliers. I bent the extremity of the copper wire to make a loop. Then I measured 2 cm going up and, with my flat nose pliers, I bent the first angle. After 2 more cm, a second one and, after 3 cm I cut off the pieces with my nippers.

I repeat the process 8 times because spiders have 8 legs.

With the same wire I make a circle. To make it perfectly round, I help myself with a wooden mandrel.

Then I placed everything on my refractory base to put all the pieces together. I use a braising alloy and a butane torch for the job and I start by braising the circle and one by one all the 8 legs. To keep the legs standing in place, I used reverse tweezers.

 I wasn't sure about the stability of the structure while testing it with the candle, so I made a cross shape to reinforce the bottom of the cup that is going to contain the candle.

After everything was completely welded together, I put it in pickling solution for 20 minutes to remove all the burning scales and clean it.

Before I start use the Apoxie resin for the body, I cover then the bottom of the cup with aluminum foil. 

I mixed the Apoxie, always with gloves, and with my steel rolling pin I made a sheet of resin. I applied the first layer, cut the excess and let it cure for a few hours. Once it's hard, it's easier to work with the other layers of resin that I will go to apply.

I then put a sheet inside and start working all the hedges with soft apoxie. I filled all the holes and smooth everything that needed to be done. Also, I use Isopropyl alcohol to work with Apoxie because it's super sticky. I dip my silicone brush of my fingers to make a better job. It's like working with natural clay.

I add the last sheet of resin on the bottom of the cup to make the design. With a metal rod, I made straight intersecting lines to make it look like a pumpkin and with a with aluminum foil I made the blossom end. To finish it, I made a few wrinkles here and there, and I smooth everything with my finger and isopropyl alcohol.

I left it to cure completely for a day and gave it 2 coats of conductive paint. 

When the paint was dry, I dipped it in the electroforming tank. I wished I had my bigger tank set up because with the small one it was difficult to let it inside at first, but after a few attempts I manage to make it fit precisely.

After 27 hours and some adjustment on the Power supply, it was finally ready. 

 

I then set it in a plastic container with water and with lots of liver of sulfur to make a black patina.

 

Liver of sulfur is the chemical substance used to color copper and silver. It has an intense smell produced by the evaporation of the sulfides, just like rotten eggs. It's recommended to use a respirator mask or work in a ventilated area.
Also, after we are done with our job, we need to neutralize it with baking soda or better with bleach. You can also leave it to evaporate before flushing in the drain. It's a toxic substance, we don't want to contribute to pollution.

 

When ready, I start by polishing all the black with a scotch brite brush and my rotary tool. With a bristle brush wheel 1000 grit, I make it to be a little bit shinier. I'll keep my respiratory mask on and carry on with the work.

It didn't take long to make polish it all and have it ready for a photoshoot and finally light the candle.

 

 

I hope you liked this tutorial and Happy Halloween.

 

Don't forget to check the video out on Youtube!!!!

Thank you all by CuForming!!!

Sculpetd and Electroformed Octopus on a bottle

 

I wanted to make this project for the end of summer, but it took me more than 45 days to complete it.

Different arts are involved here, sculpting with Apoxie, casting resin to make eyes and of course electroforming. It was challenging, but I finally manage to come to an end. 

Did everything go right? No! It came out gorgeous? In my opinion, YES!

This is my octopus on a bottle. Please enjoy it.

 

Supplies needed:

• a bottle with cap
• Vinegar
• Sulfuric acid (this is not mandatory) http://ebay.to/37boFhw | https://amzn.to/3NKa4u
• Apoxie Sculpt https://ebay.to/3URwopj | https://amzn.to/36N1TfF
• Modelling tools https://ebay.to/3srynEG | https://amzn.to/3pksmrp
• Isopropyl Alcohol https://ebay.to/3fGkj6l | https://amzn.to/3C88qgK
• Electrical wire terminals https://ebay.to/3y9ZWEE | https://amzn.to/3SVL2dq
• Aluminum foil https://amzn.to/3M2bW0U
  
• Epoxy clear resin https://ebay.to/3e0anDY | https://amzn.to/3EccW0w
• Clear cups https://ebay.to/3rtsYLP | https://amzn.to/3SE7kAG
  
• Scale https://ebay.to/3C3tchF | https://amzn.to/3rrfzny
• Lens mold https://ebay.to/3RyVFSf | https://amzn.to/3V1kWHO
  
• Liquid latex https://ebay.to/3IZ5iGe | https://amzn.to/3Jcwu3
• UV Resin https://ebay.to/3JPvi79 | https://amzn.to/34bTMrS
• UV Lamp https://ebay.to/3t6D3yR | https://amzn.to/3Gms4pt
• CA Glue https://ebay.to/3pfSgfL | https://amzn.to/3gkYJ49
• Mirror effect varnish https://ebay.to/3hoYxRR | https://amzn.to/36Jwxq5
• Conductive Paint https://ebay.to/3CtqeVc | https://amzn.to/3okY7QA
• Brush https://ebay.to/3EfoYpJ | https://amzn.to/3unK1BC
• Copper Wire (0.6 mm or very thin) https://ebay.to/3Iifrxj | https://amzn.to/3ujk7PD
• Liver of Sulfur https://ebay.to/3BOoR1i | https://amzn.to/3Gt7p34
• Rotary Tool https://ebay.to/3M3Ujxb | https://amzn.to/3so0LHy
• Scotch Brite Brush https://ebay.to/3y9Q9hR | https://amzn.to/3M6fSxF
• Bristle Brush Wheel https://ebay.to/3hooJMu | https://amzn.to/3pnlhX4
• All the electroforming supplies https://kit.co/cuforming/electroforming-advanced-kit

Let's start with the things that need time. 

I found a bottle with a painted label, so it needs to be cleaned. This kind of paint only goes off with acid. In a jar big enough to accommodate the bottle in it, I poured some Vinegar and a little sulfuric acid.

Then, I filled up the bottle with water to make it sink in the acid. I left it for three days to soften the paint and with paper towel I wiped the paint off the bottle quite easily.

 

 

Any kind of acid is gonna work here, just vinegar is fine and safe, but it needs time though. I've added sulfuric acid to accelerate the process, and because it's something I usually have in my lab.

Another thing that needs time to be completed is epoxy resin. Before starting mixing the resin, I like to clean my molds with latex. By applying a thin layer of liquid latex on top of any silicon mold, all the dust and small particles deposited on will be incorporated in the latex and when dry, they can be removed from the mold.

It takes a few hours for the latex to be cured, and we can begin mixing the resin.

 I have this resin that is 1 to 1 ratio between A and B parts, so with a scale I weighted the same amount of each. Mix for 60 seconds and then pour. After 48 hours, the lenses are good to be removed from the mold.

 

In the meantime, I made the eye design on photoshop and paint the ones I needed with a wash of acrylic paint. I could have got them out of the printer already colored, but painting them was funnier.

Once all the parts were ready, I glued the paper on the bottom of the lenses with UV resin and left them to cure for 10 minutes under UV light.

 Let's now start working on the bottle by applying a coat of Mirror effect varnish. This will create a cover on the glass to hide all the different colors of the stuff that we are going to put on top of it. Black for the conductive paint or white for the Apoxie (at the end of this project you will see that it didn't matter much because I covered almost everything).

 

I then applied a coat of very thick conductive paint that I'm experimenting with, and I don't know yet how it's going to work. I covered part of the bottle and let it dry.

 

It's now time for the fun part of this project: Sculpting. To do this, I use Apoxie Sculpt. It comes in 2 parts, A and B. While mixing this compound, always remember to put gloves on. It could be dangerous for your skin. Once mixed, it's safe to touch.

Start by making tentacles. With hands, make a conical shape, long and thin as you wish. To make the suckers, I made small balls. I put them in size order and with balled tools also of different sizes I made the suction cup shape.

I arranged eight tentacles on the bottle, trying to be natural and organic as possible to resemble the movement of the octopus.

 

With electrical wire terminals, I made a texturing tool. These are good to create a dotted texture.

 

I have a lot of these little things of any size in my shop, since we are all electricians in my family. But I discovered that lots of artists that work with polymer clay and such materials use them for their projects.

Then I covered all extremities with a round and flat piece of apoxie to make the skirt of the octopus. I shaped it with a silicon brush and textured it. I also removed all gaps of the skirt on the tentacles with another silicon brush.

 

The head is gonna be big and to save on apoxie I used some aluminum foil to make most of it's mass.

 Then I cover it with apoxie and attach it on the body.

 

With a balled tool, I made the housing for the eyes and attach them to the head.

I used small pieces of apoxie to make eyelids and to avoid the stickiness of the apoxie, I dipped the silicon tools in isopropyl alcohol. Water can also be used to do this, but it's not very good, and there is on the market a solvent specific for this purpose. For me, Isopropyl alcohol is the best solution between quality and price.

 

Texturing everything it'll be the last thing to do before leave it to fully cure.

I then prepare the cap by removing some part of it and sand it a little with my belt sander. Glue the bigger eye with CA glue and do the same job with apoxie. A little tentacle on the side was the final touch.

 

 Before the apoxie cure, it's a good behavior to clean the eyes from all the sticky residue of the apoxie. Isopropyl alcohol or acetone can do the job. I used a soaked cue tip.

 

Time to cover everything with conductive paint. I used a big brush for most of the surface and a smaller brush for the areas near the eyes and the tentacles near the glass.

 

Once dry, I used a scotch brite brush to make it smoother and give it a second coat of conductive paint (sorry, I didn't mention the second coat on the video).

 

With a 0.6 mm copper wire, I wrapped my pieces to make them ready to be hanged in the electroforming solution. 

I dipped them in to the solution and regulate the power supply to the lowest current possible.

 

My calculation for the surface was 50 inches squares in total. So I started with 0.3 amperes. Once the pieces were covered in copper, I've regulated my power supply from 0.5 A to 1.5 A. The last 10 hours I left it at 1.25 A. (sorry again, this is not shown on the video).

I kept the cap in the bath for 41 hours, and the bottle for 55 hours. 

 What went wrong? This project was large for my small tank and I miscalculated the amount of anode. At the end, my pipes were almost vanished. And I didn't see it under the anode bags. This caused the brightener to looks like faded (but there was more than enough in the solution). The unbalance though didn't prevent the copper to coat the piece, it just didn't make it bright and shine.

 Another issue was caused by the concave spots. Even almost at the end, they were black.

This is a graphite issue. Graphite is not conductive like copper itself, it creates electrical resistance. The solution for this problem is to use Copper Conductive Paint for deep and concave spots.

 

Now, to finish the piece, I oxidize it to make it black. In a plastic container, I poured some water and Liver of sulfur.

Liver of sulfur is the chemical substance used to color copper and silver. It has an intense smell produced by the evaporation of the sulfides, just like rotten eggs. It's recommended to use a respirator mask or work in a ventilated area.
Also, after we are done with our job, we need to neutralize it with baking soda or better with bleach. You can also leave it to evaporate before flushing in the drain. It's a toxic substance, we don't want to contribute to pollution.

 

 After a few hours, everything was ready to be polished.

For this process, I like to use bristle brush wheels. To reveal the copper underneath the oxide, I use a 220 grit brush. To make the black oxide shine, I use a 2000 grit brush.

 

Last step is to clean everything. With a solvent, I removed the visible remains of the Mirror varnish and also remove the dust from the previous polishing process.

 Step by step

       

I've really enjoyed doing this project, even if it came with lots of difficulties. It make me learn so much.

Please check the video on YouTube and don't forget to subscribe.

 

Thank you all by CuForming!!!