Tuesday, May 23, 2023

Electropatina: Unleashing the Magic of Color on Copper

Welcome to the fascinating world of electropatina. This technique allows you to transform plain copper into captivating pieces of art with stunning colors and unique patterns. Join me as we explore the step-by-step process, discuss the creative possibilities, and uncover the secrets behind achieving breathtaking results.


 

Electropatina: Unleashing the Magic of Color on Copper


If you're looking to add a touch of enchantment to your copper creations, electropatina is the perfect technique to explore. With its ability to transform plain copper into vibrant, multicolored works of art, electropatina offers a world of creative possibilities. In this post, I will take you through the step-by-step process, discuss the necessary equipment, highlight important safety precautions, and explore various techniques to help you master the art of electropatina.

Equipment: To successfully carry out the electropatina process, you will need a few essential pieces of equipment:

  • Beaker: Used for containing and heating the electropatina solution.

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  • Thermometer: To monitor the temperature while operating.

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  • Copper Electrode: Serves as the anode in the process setup.

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  • Power Supply: Provides the electrical current required for the reaction.

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  • Electric stove: With this you can warm the solution.

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  • Clips: Used to connect the anode and cathode to the power supply.

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  • Safety Gear: Wear gloves, eye protection, a respirator mask, and a lab coat to ensure your safety throughout the process. Work under a fume extractor or a kitchen hood or in a ventilated area.

 

 Step-by-Step Process:

  1. Setting up the process: Warm the solution to a range of temperature between 65 °C and 90 °C, Place a copper electrode (anode) in the solution, ensuring it doesn't touch the cathode (the piece you want to color) while operating. Connect the anode to the positive pole of a power supply and the cathode to the negative pole.

     

  2. Applying the Current: Turn on the power supply, setting it to the recommended voltage (typically around 1.5 volts or lower) and maximum amperes. This creates the electrical current necessary for the reaction to occur.

  3. Dipping the Piece: Slowly immerse the cathode into the solution, ensuring it is fully submerged. The length of time you leave it in the solution will determine the depth and intensity of the patina color.

Safety Precautions: Electropatina involves working with chemicals and electricity, so it's crucial to prioritize safety. Here are some essential precautions to follow:

  • Wear appropriate safety gear to protect your hands, eyes, and respiratory system.
  • Work in a well-ventilated area or use a fume extractor to minimize exposure to fumes.
  • Handle the chemicals with care, following proper storage and disposal guidelines.
  • Avoid direct contact with the electropatina solution and ensure the power supply is turned off when not in use.

Techniques: There are different techniques you can experiment with to achieve various effects and colors:



 

  • Gradient Technique: With a low range of voltage (0.5V), dip the piece in the solution for long intervals, slowly moving it up and down. This technique creates a gradient effect with a smooth transition of colors.
  • Splash Technique: With a high range of voltage (1.5V) dip the piece in the solution for a short time and remove it with fast, abrupt movements. This technique produces a more textured and unpredictable pattern on the surface.
  • Removing and Rinsing: Carefully lift the cathode out of the solution, making sure it doesn't                    touch the anode. Rinse the piece thoroughly with water to wash the excess of solution.
  • Cancel the patina by raising the voltage (5.0V) quickly dip and remove the piece from the solution just once to make the piece ready for a new patination.


Unlocking the Beauty of Electropatina: With its ability to turn copper into a canvas for stunning colors, electropatina opens up a world of creative possibilities. Whether you're designing jewelry, sculpting decorative items, or exploring mixed-media art, the vibrant patinas achieved through this process add depth, character, and intrigue to your creations.


Remember, practice and experimentation are key to mastering the art of electropatina. Each piece you create

But that's not all! As a token of our appreciation for your support, I'm thrilled to announce the giveaway in conjunction with our YouTube video. By participating, you have a chance to win all the exclusive contents about electropatina. To qualify to receive the giveaway leave a comment in the YouTube video saying "I Love Copper".

The complete Video with exclusive content of how to create your own electropatina and the eBook  will provide a comprehensive resource with detailed recipes, tips, and additional insights into achieving the desired results in your own electropatina projects. Be sure to leave your comment and unlock the full potential of this incredible technique.


 

The world of electropatina offers a captivating journey into the art of transforming copper into vibrant and enchanting masterpieces. Whether you're a jewelry enthusiast, a DIY enthusiast, or simply intrigued by the allure of unique patinas, electropatina allows you to unleash your creativity and create one-of-a-kind pieces that mesmerize and inspire. Don't miss out on the exciting giveaway and be sure to grab your copy of the eBook to continue exploring the endless possibilities of electropatina. Let's embark on this artistic adventure together and witness the magic of color come to life on copper.

Thank you, CuForming!

Thursday, January 26, 2023

PEG is the laxative that you can use for electroforming


This is the first tutorial for the new year, and I wanted to make something simple that every beginner electroformer can do to upgrade its electroforming solution.

It's a cheap and safe way to make a brightener and also to improve the conductivity of the electroforming solution. The substance we are going to use is called PEG.

PEG = Polyethylene Glycol = H-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH

PEG stands for Polyethylene Glycol, commonly used as laxative for children, but it is also a good electrolyte for the copper electroforming solution. It doesn't contain metallic ions that could interfere with the growth of the copper deposit. It has a high boiling point, which helps to dissipate heat generated during the electroforming process. The high viscosity, allows for process stability, helping to prevent distortion of the substrate of the copper deposit which can improve the surface quality.

If you live in the US you can find it with the name of Miralax which is a specific brand name for PEG 3350. While Macrogol is the generic name for PEG in Europe. It can be found in a lot of different brands and formulations. Some of them may contain flavoring and excipients which you don't want in your solution. You need pure PEG.

 

The brand I found in Italy of pure PEG is Onligol. It contains pure PEG 4000.

The number that you will see associated with PEG can go between 2000 and 4000, and it determines the molecular weight. A PEG brand with higher molecular weight can hold more water and can make an electroforming solution more conductive. It doesn't make a big different though, so don't be bothered to buy the PEG with a higher weight number.

Let's now make the solution


To prepare our solution of PEG for electroforming we are gonna need:

  • 100ml of distilled water
  • 18g of PEG.

Supplies needed:

It's an easy process, and it's gonna be a very fast dissolution since PEG will absorb water in seconds.

I will pour the solution in a dropper bottle, so it'll be easy to use.


To test this PEG solution for this video, I've prepared one liter of basic electroforming solution.


 

(Check my video if you wanna know how to make it).


It's just water, copper sulfate and sulfuric acid in which I previously electroformed a sample piece.

The copper on the sample has a rough salmony color, with a little glaze, but it doesn't shine at all.

 Let's now add the PEG to the solution and see the result with the second sample.

For 1 liter of electroforming solution, I'm gonna add 5ml of PEG solution. One dropper is basically 1ml, so I'll add 5.


I will mix it up a little with the magnetic stirrer before adding the sample.

I spent 40 hours to electroform the first sample at a very low current. With 0.2 Volts I had a range of current between 0.03 Amps and 0.07 Amps. Also, the temperature was at 25 °C.

With the second sample I will test the differences between Time, Current range, and copper deposit. So I will keep the same, voltage and temperature. Will it be shine and bright this time?


 

This is the result after 10 hours. It definitely went faster on the second sample with PEG added to the solution. The first one at this point still had few black spots of graphite.


 

I will leave it overnight to make the copper deposit thicker.

In the morning, after 11 hours of my last check, the surface is still dull. I've decided to crank the amps up a little to reach the standard point of current and hoping for some luster.

 



Here we are at 26 hours of work. It's definitely shining. It is not bright, but it looks better than the first sample. The copper deposit got thicker in less time. The current range was lower at 0.2V. I can't make a comparison for the last 6 hours of boosting at 0.6V with 0.2 Amps to 0.3 Amps.

 In conclusion, this product can help to accelerate the process, and it can get the copper deposit smoother, and it definitely improves the surface quality. Is it good as a brightener? Well, I'm gonna say YES and NO. That feeble luster cannot claim it to be a brightener. To be considered a Brightener, the copper surface should be bright. This is good though, for those who work with black patina, and a piece like this one, can just be cleaned with high grit polishing tools.


 

I hope this information was useful for your work, and you will have fun doing it.

Watch my videos on YouTube, subscribe and like for more.

Thank you all, Cu Forming!

Thursday, December 8, 2022

Christmas tree ornament earrings

 The most wonderful time of the year is coming, Christmas is here! For the biggest event of all time, I couldn't be miss the opportunity to make a themed jewel. And the symbol that better represents winter holidays is the Christmas tree, so I made these tree shaped earring that can also be a tree ornament for the occasion.


 

Copper wire with red and green agate stones to make a simple yet gorgeous piece of jewelry/ornament for my viewers.


 

Enjoy this tutorial and video on YouTube and Merry Christmas!

Supply and Equipment:

To make the tree shape, I use my wrap n tap pliers. I start by making the bail with copper wire and one by one I alternate straight parallel line one bigger than the previous resembling such as a serpentine and end it with another bail.

For the hook I also start with a bail on a piece of wire and with my fingers I made I round shape like a half circle. With my flat nose pliers, I made I sharp corner to close the hook. Cut to the right size and file the ends with my small needle file.

I then flat the corner on my anvil to give it strength, and then I attached them to the trees.

 I choose red and green agate stones that are the colors of Christmas. These agates don't have holes, and definitely I don't wanna pierce them. That's where electroforming start to play in this project.

I use copper tape, which is conductive, to wrap all my stones on the narrow side to leave the face visible from the front of the jewel. 

 With a steel rod, I burnished all the copper tape's wrinkles that didn't got glued with just my finger pressure. Pushing the copper tape on the stone will make it be flat and there won't be any issues while electroforming.

 Now we can join all jump rings to connect each part. I wanna set red stones on top and the green ones on the bottom, so I'm gonna weld two bails on the red ones and only one on the greens.
Using my solder iron and just a small dot of tin solder, I attached them one after another. To help tin to stick on copper, I use flux.

In one of my old videos, I made crimp end caps, and I soldered them with the same technique. In that video I used a waxy flux that was very dirty with lots of residues and after the job I had to wash all pieces in acetone and put them to boil in hot water.


This time I use a clear no residues flux that doesn't need any other treatment after the soldering process so that my pieces are ready for the electroforming solution bath.


 Since I didn't use any conductive paint therefore all the parts that need to be electroformed are already metal, therefore in the tank, they will stay less than usual. I set my power supply at low current during the afternoon, and I set it on medium/high in the evening before I go to sleep.

 The next morning everything was bright and shine, so I removed them from the bath. But I was going to mount them on the tree part and I noticed that the wire's copper wasn't as bright as the one on the stones, so I decided to put those tree with the hooks attached in the tank for few hours to mach the stone's brightness.

 I finally set myself in mounting mode and join everything together. The hook on top, then the tree, the red stone and on the bottom the green one.

 I couldn't wait to make a photo shoot, so I spent the rest of the afternoon preparing and decorate my Christmas tree.

 And there you go, my Christmas Tree Earrings Ornaments.

Please watch the YouTube Video, Like and Subscribe.


 Thank you all of you and Merry Christmas, CuForming!



Saturday, December 3, 2022

How to make Liver of Sulfur and Colorful Patina on Copper


 

 There are different ways to make Patina on metal, but the most mysterious and still popular way to do it is with Liver of sulfur. In this tutorial, I will resume my three videos from YouTube about LoS. I will teach you how to produce LoS in different ways, and I will also show you how to use it to make different patina colors on copper.


In the first video, I will show you how to make it in less than one hour with small lab equipment.
This method is safe, but it requires a little care when we manipulate the substances.

Three simple ingredients are needed:

 The equipment needed is:

***Sodium Hydroxide also called Lye or Caustic Soda is dangerous***. BE CAREFUL WITH IT. If you are not familiar with it wear eye protection, wear gloves and use it with a fume extractor or in a ventilate area or even wear a respirator mask. Don't pour water in solid lye, it will start to splash all around. Don't put your face over the beaker. Don't touch it with wet hands if it is solid, don't touch it if it's dissolved, don't touch it at all. The solution is exothermic, it means that it's gonna get hot. Be aware that the temperature will reach 70 °C.

I'm doing it under my fume extractor, I don't recommend making it in under your kitchen hood, it's gonna make your kitchen stink for days. Do it outside.

 

Pour the distilled water in your beaker and turn on your stove to medium heat.



Add sodium hydroxide into the water and let it dissolve completely. 

When the solution starts to boil, add the sulfur powder and let it dissolve in to the sodium hydroxide solution. 

During this process we need to stir the solution once in a while with a glass stirrer (not necessary if we use a magnetic stirrer) and if needed we can wash the sides of the beaker with little water to let the sulfur go down. 


The solution will start becoming yellow, then orange and at the end dark red.

 

 Leave it to boil until all the sulfur is completely dissolved or when the color is very dark. Sometime, small particles of sulfur don't want to melt in the solution. It'll take around 30 minutes and when it's done we may wanna leave our solution to cool down. 

The liquid contains impurities and small pieces of undissolved sulfur that we don't want in the final product, so we are going to filter it. Two coffee filters a and a funnel on a sealed container are perfect. Pour the liquid and wait for it to drip entirely.


This is the final product and can be used as it is but, for convenience, I usually partition it in smaller glass dropper bottles ready to be use one drop at the time to make diluted solutions.

 

If you choose the right container, it will last for very long time.

Necessary Steps

How to Make Patina on Copper with Everyday Items

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